A land of palaces and sorrows

This is my first post from Russia. Its been a whirlwind of activity up until now, as tours tend to be. I was on a 9 day tour that went through Moscow, Pskov, and St Petersburg, which all in all was very informative and a wonderful cushion for then exploring Russia on my own a little. So that is where I am now: alone on my 10th day in Russia, and with the first opportunity to really consolidate my thoughts on this incredible country. Its a land of staggering contradictions and immense hardship. I still cannot comprehend how so much can happen to one country. One the one hand you have the grand legacy of the tsars, with their gilded palaces, tremendous collections of art, and riches literally beyond your wildest dreams. Tsarinas with 50,000 dresses (yes, that even outstrips me!), 50 gilded carriages, jewels and artefects so ornate they take your breathe away, not only because of their beauty but at how so much wealth can be spend on something that will only ever be (and has only ever been) kept in a museum showcase. Then you have the poverty of a nation that seems to be present throughout its turbulent history. This is the type of poverty that inspires uprisings, its so prolific and deep. I see images of it in the artwork, we learn about the riots and protests through the centuries as the starvation and deprivation of the masses inspire violence and revolution. Post-war poverty reached new heights, with people supposedly boiling their shoes to soak up whatever nutrients are left in the leather. And even today, I read about it in the excellent English-written St Petersburg Times, a free publication that chronicles the political and economical situation of the country today, which I have been avidly reading. The minimum wage in this country is four times less than the minimum standard of living cost. Teachers and nurses earn in 1600 rubles in a month - to put it in perspective, an average meal here costs about 200-300 roubles. Horrific. What amazes me is the degree to which the domination of Communist propaganda and a history full of despots has affected the people. Actually, it doesn't surprise me, its very understandable. If you subject people to decades of torture and death and imprisonment when they express any free will or yearn for something greater, then you teach them to not think, to not act outside the square, and to do the least necessary to get by. So is it any wonder that its impossible to get anyone to smile at you, to go a little out of their way for you, to offer a decent level of service. For example, my hotel room has no heating, so is glacially cold. I requested a heater and had to wait two days to receive it. I went to a fascinating Political History museum, and was kicked out unceremoniously at 5:40pm because the museum closed at 6pm. When I protested I was rudely yelled at by an old woman. I tried to explain the irony of being scolded so rudely when surrounded by relics from the Communist era when people where tortured and subjugated, but I think the sentiment was lost on her. Food is served late and cold, taxis scandolously overcharge, public transport is a nightmare to work out... all in all, it can be a hard place to be, and I am often tempted to be furious at the people, when I remember they are a product of their history and environment, and earnestly wish them the best in the future. Anyway, its been great fun. I went to supposedly St Petersburg's best nightclub and was surrounded by supermodel type woman, very fun. I have had a Russian sauna, which involves sweating in a sauna then being beat by birch twigs then running outside and diving into a freezing pond. Mmmm... I have seen wonderful art and beautiful palaces. I have learnt so much about how Communism seduced then raped the country. All in all, its been tremendous, an adventure, despite the hardships.

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