After my 4th calamity of my Egypt tour, a concerned fellow traveller asked if I was ok. "Oh yes", I assured her, "This is normal for me. My friends in London call me Calamity Jane, and I think you can see why". She looked at me, and nodded understandingly.
First Calamity
I walked into my single hotel room in Aswan, closed the door, and looked around. I needed to have a shower and rest after a long overnight train journey from Cairo, in time to regroup with my tour in an hour. My luggage was being taken to my room by a porter, so I went to reopen the door to see if they were almost there, when the door handle came off in my hand. Mmm... I tried to put it back in and turn the handle, but to no avail. I jostled a bit further, and realised quickly it was going to be a futile exercise to open it from the inside. The porter then arrived with my luggage, and I had to explain through a thick wooden door that I couldn't open my door, could he please try? He finally understood, and went to get someone. Meanwhile I call reception to tell them, and they also arrange to get someone.
Shortly, I had a congregation of Egyptians outside my hotel room, all trying to jostle open the door with a spare key, but to no avail. Occasionally they would drift out of my field of vision from the spy-hole in my door, and I would panic and call out 'Any luck? Pleeease!'. 30 minutes passed with no success.
Finally, one of the troupe called out that they could only open the door by dismantling the mechanism from the inside, so they were going to get someone to climb in through my room window. I ran to open the window and looked out. A sheer drop presented itself, with no ledge other than a very old and dusty air conditioning unit, that looked like it would drop with the weight of a pigeon. I ran back to my door spy-hole, and saw convexically the troupe explaining to my next-door-neighbours that they had to access their window to climb through it to get to my window. I couldn't help but laugh at the insanity of it all. I ran back to my window, and called out to no one in particular "Its madness to try! You'll die!". Eventually I saw the smiling face of an Egyptian porter sticking his head out the neighbouring window. We laughed, looked down, and I said "Don't even try, its not worth the risk!". He disappeared.
I ran back to the door spy-hole and one of the troupe called out that they were going to try accessing my window through the elevator shaft. What?! I ran back to the window, and sure enough, right by my window was the elevator shaft. In a few minutes, my friend the Egyptian porter could be seen suspended from the scaffolding-type structure encasing the elevator shaft. With quasi-acrobatic skill, he leveraged himself across the yawning gap between shaft and window, and propelled himself into my room. Hooray! Within another few minutes, he had unscrewed the door handle mechanism, and I was free! I was kindly moved to another room with working door handles, and rushed to have a shower. Unsurprisingly, I was a little late to my group briefing, but they understood (although were a little shocked) when I told them the reason.
Second Calamity
My tour included a 3-day cruise down the Nile from Aswan to Luxor. It was truly splendid. We stopped off along the way to visit temples and tombs. One morning, we stopped off to visit Komombo temple, by docking against another docked cruiseship, and walking through it to reach the gangway to the shore. The temple was beautiful, and I lost myself gazing at the 4000-year old hieroglyphics and architecture. We had to be back on the cruiseship before 2pm as our boat would sail off at that time, and at 1:55pm, I thought to myself "Oh, one last look around...", so I sprinted round, gathering the ambience one last time, and then headed back to the shore. That was when I realised I had no idea which boat I had to get through to get to my boat. There were dozens docked along the shore, and it was 1:58pm. I started to panic. I ran down the shore to where I thought it was, but realised I had no clue, and was utterly disoriented. I broke out in a cold sweat. I asked a guard where the 'Nile Jewel' was, and he looked confused into the distance. A passing local noticed my panic, and said 'Nile Jewel? Follow me, I know where it is'. So I followed him down the shore, but when I got to where he pointed, I found it wasn't my boat. It was now past 2pm, and things were looking grim. To make matters worse, the little man asked for a baksheesh, the Egyptian equivalent of a tip, but which apparently has no relationship whatsoever to quality or accuracy of service. I refused, and ran the other way up the shore, asking other guards. The little man followed me, saying 'Nile Jewel, its this way', and pointing in entirely the opposite direction to where he initially had taken me. I was getting annoyed. I said 'Look, you don't know where it is, I am not paying you anything, please leave me alone', but undeterred, he kept following me, pointing at random points and saying confidently 'Nile Jewel!'. Eventually, I found a guard who had an idea, and found my boat. The guards kept the little man away from me, and I arrived breathless and relieved in the reception area of my cruiseship, just as it undocked to leave. Phew!
Third Calamity
I began my trip by approaching potentially dodgy food with suspicion. Very quickly that evaporated, as I am hopeless when it comes to self-control and food. Particularly on a cruiseship, with a gorgeous buffet for lunch and dinner. So I gorged myself constantly. It came to haunt me on Christmas morning, as I awoke early to the vibration of my stomach. I knew what that gurgle sensation meant, and ran to the toilet. Oh yes, after a week save from harm, I finally was struck by tummy troubles on Christmas Day of all days. But in typical me-fashion, it wasn't to be normal diarrhoea... no, that would be too convenient. Instead, it was accompanied by what I will describe as child-birth contractions. Searing galling stomach cramps that came in waves, with a pain so acute that I literally was screaming and writhing in pain. Literally. It was horrific. The diarrhoea was nothing, it was treated with a little Imodium. The stomach cramps kept me in unbelievable agony all day. I couldn't even stand up, because if I did and a wave hit me, I would collapse. I was so miserable - I was homesick and lonely sitting in my little cabin all by myself while my fellow tour group members toured Karnak in Luxor. But I experienced true Christmas kindnesses. One of my tour friends came and kept me company for an hour, and read to me from a tour book so I could take my mind off the pain. He kindly looked away or closed his eyes when I moaned in agony, and didn't mind when I ran to the bathroom to throw-up. Eventually I fell asleep, and that seemed to heal the pain a little. One of the other guys on my tour came back from the visit to Karnak with a Christmas present for me, wrapped in National Geographic magazine pages! It was two little papyrus paintings, really sweet and pretty. I was so touched I started to cry. It was my only present that Christmas, and for it to come from a little Taiwanese boy who felt sorry for my agony, was a true Christmas blessing.
Eventually the pain subsided a little, and now, two days later, the waves of cramps come only every 30 minutes or so, and with significantly less intensity than before. Its just a shame I missed Christmas, but words cannot describe how grateful I was to be in my own little sweet cabin, with my own bathroom, and a 24 hour English movie channel on my own TV. Heaven!
Fourth Calamity
After visiting the tomb of Queen Hetshepsut (where terrorists had a killing spree on tourists in 1997), we were walking back to our tour bus, and I was laughing at a fellow tour leader for carrying such heavy bag, when my laugh was cut short by a plank of wood splintering against my head. Turns out by not looking where I was walking - not terribly unusual for me, I agree - I had walked into a plank of wood that was at head height along my path. Other people walk under it, but I had to smash it against my forehead.
So you can see why after so many calamities in the space of a week, my fellow tour members could already see why I was dubbed Calamity Jane. Nevertheless, I am fine, alive and happy. I am heading up to Cairo on the overnight train tonight, and then head to Dahab for a week of diving and beach relaxation. Fingers crossed I don't get the bends!
Tuesday, December 27, 2005
Wednesday, December 21, 2005
Key of Life
Egypt is officially the most different country I've ever been to. Culturally, geographically, socially, its all very exotic and so different from Western societies.
Firstly, they home deliver KFC. Tee hee... sorry, just noticed a congregation of KFC motorcycle delivery men out the window of this internet cafe. Now that is an interesting concept...
The items of wonder I am referring to are a little more interesting than home-delivered fried chicken. The most awe-inspiring site is that of the pyramids, of course. Its been described a multitude of times, its been shown on TV and movies endlessly, but there is something quite moving about your first view of a pyramid. Particularly the Giza pyramids, as you approach them through a wildly chaotic road, with cars beeping their horns instead of using their indicators to signal lateral movement on the roads, and endless estates of red-brick half-finished apartment blocks (left deliberately unfinished for when the grand kids arrive and they need to expand their block!). Then out of the pollution-stained hazy sky, you see an incongruously tall structure with elegant straight edges. Its seems unreal at first, this juxtaposition of hectic mad city with graceful monuments to eternity. You approach the pyramids, and at first you think to yourself "Gee, I thought they'd be bigger", until you see humans at the base of them, and realise that their size is difficult to gauge without a basis for comparison. And they are huge. Each stone is the height of a human, though from afar, they look like teensy steps. They tower into the sky, for the most part still completely intact, which is staggering considering they are almost 4000 years old. Its humbles you when you think about how long ago that was.
So the pyramids have been great. On other days we happen to casually see them as we drive, and the sight still shocks me... modern day ugliness with ancient beauty in the background. The sphinx as well, very impressive... you are aware you are doing the touristy things, but you cannot help but gasp as the grandeur and legacy of these ancient egyptians.
Modern Egyptians, on the other hand, well, they are a mixed lot. Now, I have travelled in many places where people try very hard to sell to you, and men try to seduce you, but here its been a challenge, particularly as a single woman. The selling I can cope with... its annoying and makes you cynical and unfriendly to any new person you meet, but its not unusual. The 'seduction' is very annoying... I was well-prepared with what to expect, but it still upsets you a bit, when almost every man you meet gives you a full look up and down, asks if you have a husband, proposes to you, or wants to sidle up to you. Eek. I've taken to pretending that a oldish man on the tour is my husband, much easier to pretend!
Culturally, its fascinating. We had a cab driver who had no idea how to find our hotel, even though we asked him several times before we boarded "Do you know where this is? Are you sure?". Of course, he had no idea, and even after he did - and I kid you not - 8 U-turns on a busy highway, he was still insisting he knew where it was. In the end, we recognised a building, and directed him back to our hotel ourselves. Hmmm... Then there is the practise of answering every question with "If you like". So, we ask our tour guide: "Do we need to check out of our hotel before our tour today?", "If you like", was her non-commital answer. "Do we need a sleeping bag on the train tonight?", "If you like". "It is worth going into the pyramid for 100 Egyptian pounds?", "If you like". To be honest, I am not sure if this is an example of egyptian culture, or the complete incompetence of our tour guide. We all are starting to suspect the latter. Last night, after forgetting to book a restaurant we had told her we wanted to go to, she suggested another place, spoke in Arabic to three taxis to take us there, then she got into a fourth. At the destination, we were left on a busy road, the taxi driver pointed vaguely in the direction of about 5 restaurants and drove off. We stood for 40 minutes out in the cold waiting for her. She never arrived. In the end we found a place ourselves, and struggles through the arabic menu. She never turned up. Or even more amusingly, during our orientation meeting, she spent 90 minutes laboriously writing down our insurance and flight details onto a piece of paper, while we all sat awkwardly waiting for some introduction or smile. Nothing. In the end I had to start asking everyones names and getting the conversation going... then the next night, she said her office told her the flight information needed to be written in our handwriting (why??!), so could we all write it down now. So asked her if she had the original sheet so we could copy it from there, rather than finding our flight tickets again in our rooms... oh no, she didn't have it anymore. AAAHHH.... I'm wingeing, I know, our whole tour group has been, she is truly terrible. But its only been two days, maybe it will get better.
Anyway, we are off tonight on a train south to Aswan and Luxor, then a 3 day Nile cruise, where I will be for Xmas. I may not have a chance to be online again til then, so have a wonderful Christmas and New Year! I miss you all.
Oh, and why have a titled this entry the Key of Life? Two reasons. The Key of Life is the symbol that looks like a Christian cross, but with a loop at the top rather than a fourth branch. It was used by ancient egyptians as an offering on death to the gods, as a petition for eternal life. Its also the name of the essential oil perfume I bought today at a perfume factory. Very musky and delicious!
Firstly, they home deliver KFC. Tee hee... sorry, just noticed a congregation of KFC motorcycle delivery men out the window of this internet cafe. Now that is an interesting concept...
The items of wonder I am referring to are a little more interesting than home-delivered fried chicken. The most awe-inspiring site is that of the pyramids, of course. Its been described a multitude of times, its been shown on TV and movies endlessly, but there is something quite moving about your first view of a pyramid. Particularly the Giza pyramids, as you approach them through a wildly chaotic road, with cars beeping their horns instead of using their indicators to signal lateral movement on the roads, and endless estates of red-brick half-finished apartment blocks (left deliberately unfinished for when the grand kids arrive and they need to expand their block!). Then out of the pollution-stained hazy sky, you see an incongruously tall structure with elegant straight edges. Its seems unreal at first, this juxtaposition of hectic mad city with graceful monuments to eternity. You approach the pyramids, and at first you think to yourself "Gee, I thought they'd be bigger", until you see humans at the base of them, and realise that their size is difficult to gauge without a basis for comparison. And they are huge. Each stone is the height of a human, though from afar, they look like teensy steps. They tower into the sky, for the most part still completely intact, which is staggering considering they are almost 4000 years old. Its humbles you when you think about how long ago that was.
So the pyramids have been great. On other days we happen to casually see them as we drive, and the sight still shocks me... modern day ugliness with ancient beauty in the background. The sphinx as well, very impressive... you are aware you are doing the touristy things, but you cannot help but gasp as the grandeur and legacy of these ancient egyptians.
Modern Egyptians, on the other hand, well, they are a mixed lot. Now, I have travelled in many places where people try very hard to sell to you, and men try to seduce you, but here its been a challenge, particularly as a single woman. The selling I can cope with... its annoying and makes you cynical and unfriendly to any new person you meet, but its not unusual. The 'seduction' is very annoying... I was well-prepared with what to expect, but it still upsets you a bit, when almost every man you meet gives you a full look up and down, asks if you have a husband, proposes to you, or wants to sidle up to you. Eek. I've taken to pretending that a oldish man on the tour is my husband, much easier to pretend!
Culturally, its fascinating. We had a cab driver who had no idea how to find our hotel, even though we asked him several times before we boarded "Do you know where this is? Are you sure?". Of course, he had no idea, and even after he did - and I kid you not - 8 U-turns on a busy highway, he was still insisting he knew where it was. In the end, we recognised a building, and directed him back to our hotel ourselves. Hmmm... Then there is the practise of answering every question with "If you like". So, we ask our tour guide: "Do we need to check out of our hotel before our tour today?", "If you like", was her non-commital answer. "Do we need a sleeping bag on the train tonight?", "If you like". "It is worth going into the pyramid for 100 Egyptian pounds?", "If you like". To be honest, I am not sure if this is an example of egyptian culture, or the complete incompetence of our tour guide. We all are starting to suspect the latter. Last night, after forgetting to book a restaurant we had told her we wanted to go to, she suggested another place, spoke in Arabic to three taxis to take us there, then she got into a fourth. At the destination, we were left on a busy road, the taxi driver pointed vaguely in the direction of about 5 restaurants and drove off. We stood for 40 minutes out in the cold waiting for her. She never arrived. In the end we found a place ourselves, and struggles through the arabic menu. She never turned up. Or even more amusingly, during our orientation meeting, she spent 90 minutes laboriously writing down our insurance and flight details onto a piece of paper, while we all sat awkwardly waiting for some introduction or smile. Nothing. In the end I had to start asking everyones names and getting the conversation going... then the next night, she said her office told her the flight information needed to be written in our handwriting (why??!), so could we all write it down now. So asked her if she had the original sheet so we could copy it from there, rather than finding our flight tickets again in our rooms... oh no, she didn't have it anymore. AAAHHH.... I'm wingeing, I know, our whole tour group has been, she is truly terrible. But its only been two days, maybe it will get better.
Anyway, we are off tonight on a train south to Aswan and Luxor, then a 3 day Nile cruise, where I will be for Xmas. I may not have a chance to be online again til then, so have a wonderful Christmas and New Year! I miss you all.
Oh, and why have a titled this entry the Key of Life? Two reasons. The Key of Life is the symbol that looks like a Christian cross, but with a loop at the top rather than a fourth branch. It was used by ancient egyptians as an offering on death to the gods, as a petition for eternal life. Its also the name of the essential oil perfume I bought today at a perfume factory. Very musky and delicious!
Monday, December 12, 2005
An attempt to summarise
Goodness, its been ages since I last updated this blog, I do apologise. In my attempt to get up to date as quickly as possible, I am going to shamefully summarise the last month's key points in one large entry... horror, I know, but necessary.
Getting to know you
After girlie roadtrip, Kath departed and Melli and I headed on to Italy. In Bari, we ended up waiting several hours for a bus that had broken down, but we entertained ourselves with the 'Getting to Know you' game. Its an excellent one - you ask the other person a random question, ie. 'What did you want to be when you grew up?', or 'Describe your happiest moment', or 'What food could you eat every day for eternity', etc. Then you answer the question as well, and then its the other persons go. Its a great game!
Dodgy Naples
We finally got on the bus to Naples. We were very nervous about Naples, as every person and book we had gleaned for info warned about the dodginess and corruption of the city. Over the next few days, we had many occasions to go in and out of Naples train station, and can now attest that it is every bit as dodgy and scary as they say. People with dark circles under their eyes, and an aura of evil and corruption stare at you, encircle you, stand close behind you... Melli and I were constantly on full guard, and were always fine, but my goodness, there were some icky moments.
Pompeii fantasy
Pompeii was a highlight. It wasn't at all what I expected. I've been to loads of ancient ruins, and thought it would be the same, a small area with some random vague ruins. Oh no... Pompeii is truly a full city, with avenues, streets, buildings, markets, baths, etc, all still very much in tact. And its vast, we walked around for hours, and still only saw a fraction of it. And its wonderful fun, especially at this time of year, when there were no crowds but it was still warm, we often had ruined palaces and market stalls entirely to ourselves, so we amused ourselves by role-playing in the deserted ruins: we were wool merchants, sacrifical victims, noblemen's daughters, etc. It was a wonderfully evocative day.
Capri-cious
Another fun diversion was the island of Capri. We went there for two days of peaceful walking and exploration. Its every bit as stunning an island as they say. We also went on a boat trip circumnavigating the island, exploring the caves scattered throughout the coast. It was gloriously beautiful, and perfectly climaxed by a visit to the Blue Grotto: a water cave you have to visit on a tiny dinghy (exorbitantly priced, what scoundrels!), but once inside, the water literally glows with a bright sky blue light. Its undescribably peculiar. Our dinghy driver sang opera as we splashed for all of 3 minutes inside the cave, then he proceeded to request a hearty tip, which after the 20 euro boat trip, and the 8 euro dingy ride, we thought a bit excessive... we gave him a euro, and he gave us the most withering stare you can imagine. We were haughtily indignant.
Sicilian silliness
We had planned to explore the Amalfi Coast, but after seeing Sorrento, which was the umpteenth resort town that was completely dead off-season, we decide to give up on the rest of the coast and head down to Sicily a day earlier. We boarded an overnight ferry, and in the comfort of our own cabin, proceeded to have a dress-up and dance disco with my little ipod speakers. We had a ball! Sicily was lovely. We would have loved to have been there for longer, there was a lot to see and do. We did manage to go for a hike in a beautiful seaside nature reserve with our hostel owner, which included one of the yummiest sandwiches I've ever eaten, but other than that, we just explored Palermo. The main limitation was that I got terribly ill on my last day, and couldn't get out of bed.
Change of plans
My original plans were to go to the south of France after Sicily, whilst Melli was to return to Canada via London for a night. I was heart-broken at the thought she was finally going to spend a night in London, and it wasn't going to be with me. It was just wrong, after 4 years of living there, for us never to have coincided. Then it hit me... I could go back! I didn't HAVE to be anywhere, and frankly, I didn't think I could handle another seaside resort town dead off-season. I was tired of travelling, and wanted a break. And I missed my friends in London, and I missed London. I had lots of administrative things I still needed finalising, and it would have been so much easier to do them in London. So, on a whim, I bought a one-way ticket to London with Melli. It was the BEST thing I have ever done.
Flight horror
My flight back to London was easily the worst flight I have ever had. I had a fever, and I hadn't had time to buy any pain-killers. I boarded the flight, and begged a Ryan Air attendant for some Panadols. The usual ensued... avoidance, ignorance, deference to anyone else so they didn't have to deal with the request. In the end, they said they couldn't give me anything due to blah blah, and they couldn't ask anyone on the plane either because blah blah... I was aghast. The pain in my head escalated, and I became delirious with fever. I writhed and moaned as the agony engulfed me. It was the first time I have endured flight turbulence without fear, because I actually thought to myself "If this plane crashes, at least it will take me out of this misery!". Finally, some kind (and no doubt disturbed) fellow passenger donated some pain killers to me, and in grateful blindness, I consumed it, and began to feel vaguely human again. The horror was not over yet though. As the plane started to descend, my congested head started to hurt, and the pain got worse as we descended more. The pain became like a knife, with the pressure so strong that I felt my head was going to explode. I began to get really worried... I wiggled my ears, my nose, swallowed, blew my nose, but nothing would even vaguely lessen the agony. I started to wimper, yes, indeed, I did. Melli, bless her, grabbed a flight attendant and asked for some chewing gum. The useless brainless child working on the flight said, "Oh, she'll be fine, there's nothing we can do", and Melli retorted with "No, trust me, chewing gum works and she is in pain", but of course, the moronic child of ignorance that Ryan Air uses as staff washed his hands of my distress and walked away. Luckily, again, a fellow passengar had heard my moanings and offered me his gum. So somehow, I managed to survive the flight and the landing, exhausted and in dire pain, but alive!
Night of madness
Once off the plane, Debbie in London called me to confirm whether we were all going out that night... I said that I didn't think I could make it, after being so ill. Debbie asked if I was sure, there were going to be lots of friends there... aaah, she knows me well, that Debs. Suddenly, it was as if all the pain and anguish vanished, and I felt ok again. "Oh, you know, I do feel a lot better, maybe I can make it out afterall". Melli is staring at me in horror, mouthing "Are you mad??!! You cannot go out tonight!". But its amazing what potential fun can do for my immune system... I not only made it out that night, but stayed out til 10:30am... and oh my goodness was it worthwhile. I finally, FINALLY, have my two best friends, Melli and Debs, together for the first time, see them get along, and have a wild and wonderful night of great dancing, finally, after so many disappointing attempts during our holiday, was worth the week of illness I still suffered after that night. Thanks to Broc as well for making it out, and entertaining us girls!
London luxury
My time in London was heavenly. I didn't do that much partying... just a little. But I mainly relaxed, strolled around, caught up with friends, got my yellow fever injection, bought my hiking gear for Africa, arranged more shipping to Sydney, tried to fix my ipod, etc... dull things, but not really. I was able to help Debbie move into the flat she just bought. I was able to have a final special night with Philippa. I got to spend time with a harassed and stressed Kat. I was able to get a massage from two very kind friends. And I could attend Stephen's charity auction, which had a poetic beauty about since I organised the first one, and it was lovely to see how glorious Ste could make the event. All in all, I spent a nurturing and needed two weeks in London, a perfect end to 3 months of very intense travel.
Getting to know you
After girlie roadtrip, Kath departed and Melli and I headed on to Italy. In Bari, we ended up waiting several hours for a bus that had broken down, but we entertained ourselves with the 'Getting to Know you' game. Its an excellent one - you ask the other person a random question, ie. 'What did you want to be when you grew up?', or 'Describe your happiest moment', or 'What food could you eat every day for eternity', etc. Then you answer the question as well, and then its the other persons go. Its a great game!
Dodgy Naples
We finally got on the bus to Naples. We were very nervous about Naples, as every person and book we had gleaned for info warned about the dodginess and corruption of the city. Over the next few days, we had many occasions to go in and out of Naples train station, and can now attest that it is every bit as dodgy and scary as they say. People with dark circles under their eyes, and an aura of evil and corruption stare at you, encircle you, stand close behind you... Melli and I were constantly on full guard, and were always fine, but my goodness, there were some icky moments.
Pompeii fantasy
Pompeii was a highlight. It wasn't at all what I expected. I've been to loads of ancient ruins, and thought it would be the same, a small area with some random vague ruins. Oh no... Pompeii is truly a full city, with avenues, streets, buildings, markets, baths, etc, all still very much in tact. And its vast, we walked around for hours, and still only saw a fraction of it. And its wonderful fun, especially at this time of year, when there were no crowds but it was still warm, we often had ruined palaces and market stalls entirely to ourselves, so we amused ourselves by role-playing in the deserted ruins: we were wool merchants, sacrifical victims, noblemen's daughters, etc. It was a wonderfully evocative day.
Capri-cious
Another fun diversion was the island of Capri. We went there for two days of peaceful walking and exploration. Its every bit as stunning an island as they say. We also went on a boat trip circumnavigating the island, exploring the caves scattered throughout the coast. It was gloriously beautiful, and perfectly climaxed by a visit to the Blue Grotto: a water cave you have to visit on a tiny dinghy (exorbitantly priced, what scoundrels!), but once inside, the water literally glows with a bright sky blue light. Its undescribably peculiar. Our dinghy driver sang opera as we splashed for all of 3 minutes inside the cave, then he proceeded to request a hearty tip, which after the 20 euro boat trip, and the 8 euro dingy ride, we thought a bit excessive... we gave him a euro, and he gave us the most withering stare you can imagine. We were haughtily indignant.
Sicilian silliness
We had planned to explore the Amalfi Coast, but after seeing Sorrento, which was the umpteenth resort town that was completely dead off-season, we decide to give up on the rest of the coast and head down to Sicily a day earlier. We boarded an overnight ferry, and in the comfort of our own cabin, proceeded to have a dress-up and dance disco with my little ipod speakers. We had a ball! Sicily was lovely. We would have loved to have been there for longer, there was a lot to see and do. We did manage to go for a hike in a beautiful seaside nature reserve with our hostel owner, which included one of the yummiest sandwiches I've ever eaten, but other than that, we just explored Palermo. The main limitation was that I got terribly ill on my last day, and couldn't get out of bed.
Change of plans
My original plans were to go to the south of France after Sicily, whilst Melli was to return to Canada via London for a night. I was heart-broken at the thought she was finally going to spend a night in London, and it wasn't going to be with me. It was just wrong, after 4 years of living there, for us never to have coincided. Then it hit me... I could go back! I didn't HAVE to be anywhere, and frankly, I didn't think I could handle another seaside resort town dead off-season. I was tired of travelling, and wanted a break. And I missed my friends in London, and I missed London. I had lots of administrative things I still needed finalising, and it would have been so much easier to do them in London. So, on a whim, I bought a one-way ticket to London with Melli. It was the BEST thing I have ever done.
Flight horror
My flight back to London was easily the worst flight I have ever had. I had a fever, and I hadn't had time to buy any pain-killers. I boarded the flight, and begged a Ryan Air attendant for some Panadols. The usual ensued... avoidance, ignorance, deference to anyone else so they didn't have to deal with the request. In the end, they said they couldn't give me anything due to blah blah, and they couldn't ask anyone on the plane either because blah blah... I was aghast. The pain in my head escalated, and I became delirious with fever. I writhed and moaned as the agony engulfed me. It was the first time I have endured flight turbulence without fear, because I actually thought to myself "If this plane crashes, at least it will take me out of this misery!". Finally, some kind (and no doubt disturbed) fellow passenger donated some pain killers to me, and in grateful blindness, I consumed it, and began to feel vaguely human again. The horror was not over yet though. As the plane started to descend, my congested head started to hurt, and the pain got worse as we descended more. The pain became like a knife, with the pressure so strong that I felt my head was going to explode. I began to get really worried... I wiggled my ears, my nose, swallowed, blew my nose, but nothing would even vaguely lessen the agony. I started to wimper, yes, indeed, I did. Melli, bless her, grabbed a flight attendant and asked for some chewing gum. The useless brainless child working on the flight said, "Oh, she'll be fine, there's nothing we can do", and Melli retorted with "No, trust me, chewing gum works and she is in pain", but of course, the moronic child of ignorance that Ryan Air uses as staff washed his hands of my distress and walked away. Luckily, again, a fellow passengar had heard my moanings and offered me his gum. So somehow, I managed to survive the flight and the landing, exhausted and in dire pain, but alive!
Night of madness
Once off the plane, Debbie in London called me to confirm whether we were all going out that night... I said that I didn't think I could make it, after being so ill. Debbie asked if I was sure, there were going to be lots of friends there... aaah, she knows me well, that Debs. Suddenly, it was as if all the pain and anguish vanished, and I felt ok again. "Oh, you know, I do feel a lot better, maybe I can make it out afterall". Melli is staring at me in horror, mouthing "Are you mad??!! You cannot go out tonight!". But its amazing what potential fun can do for my immune system... I not only made it out that night, but stayed out til 10:30am... and oh my goodness was it worthwhile. I finally, FINALLY, have my two best friends, Melli and Debs, together for the first time, see them get along, and have a wild and wonderful night of great dancing, finally, after so many disappointing attempts during our holiday, was worth the week of illness I still suffered after that night. Thanks to Broc as well for making it out, and entertaining us girls!
London luxury
My time in London was heavenly. I didn't do that much partying... just a little. But I mainly relaxed, strolled around, caught up with friends, got my yellow fever injection, bought my hiking gear for Africa, arranged more shipping to Sydney, tried to fix my ipod, etc... dull things, but not really. I was able to help Debbie move into the flat she just bought. I was able to have a final special night with Philippa. I got to spend time with a harassed and stressed Kat. I was able to get a massage from two very kind friends. And I could attend Stephen's charity auction, which had a poetic beauty about since I organised the first one, and it was lovely to see how glorious Ste could make the event. All in all, I spent a nurturing and needed two weeks in London, a perfect end to 3 months of very intense travel.
I am now in Spain, again relaxing, this time with family. Lots of food, alcohol, and bowling. Aaah....
OK - I am now up to date!
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